Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Luce - In the InterContinental SF


I had dinner the other evening at Luce, the new restaurant in the brand new Intercontinental in San Francisco. Below are more details that I would like to say that I wrote, but I lifted them from another article.

The cuisine: Chef Dominique Crenn has designed a seafood-heavy Italian menu incorporating California flavors and modern techniques. The Ocean and Land tartare starter includes layers of mussels, sturgeon and beef, served with spicy olive ice cream. House-made squid ink trofie carbonara incorporates baby calamari, pancetta chunks and a poached egg. Main courses include pork belly cooked sous vide, paired with spot prawns, lentils and pickled fruit.

The team: Michael Mondavi, Robert Mondavi's son and head of Folio Fine Wine Partners, had a part in planning the 130-seat restaurant's concept and wine list. Chef Crenn most recently was at Abode in Los Angeles and previously worked in San Francisco at Stars, Campton Place and several other spots. The sommelier is Helen Roy, and hospitality design firm Brayton Hughes is responsible for the decor.

So how was it? Really good food but the restaurant lacks soul. The environment is neither intimate nor awe inspiring. It was a bit like having a gourmet meal in a sterile room. Perhaps they just had too much space to effectively manage. There is no doubt that the food was very good. I had seared Foie Gras with cherries. Very good. For the main I had lamb with a date tagine. Very good as well. The wine was excellent as well.

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